4 ½-inch-thick bone-in pork chops (about 2 pounds), patted dry with paper towels
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon sugar, divided
2 tablespoons plus ¼ cup olive oil
1 lemon, zest finely grated (about 1 teaspoon), plus 2 tablespoons fresh juice
1 garlic clove, finely grated
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
½ bunch cilantro leaves with tender stems, chopped
Season pork chops generously on one side with salt and pepper. Turn and season other side generously, then sprinkle evenly with ½ tsp. sugar.
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Carefully add chops sugared side down and cook, gently shaking skillet occasionally but not disturbing pork, until underside is caramelized and chops are deeply browned all over, about 5 minutes. Turn chops and reduce heat to low. Cook just until second side is opaque, about 1 minute. Remove skillet from heat and let chops rest 10 minutes in skillet (the cooking will carry over and finish the chops while they rest)
Meanwhile, whisk lemon zest and juice, garlic, mustard, oregano, cumin, and remaining ½ tsp. sugar in a medium bowl. Slowly whisk in remaining ¼ cup oil until emulsified. Fold in cilantro and season with salt and lots of pepper.
Spoon half of dressing onto a platter. Transfer chops to platter, then whisk any juices that have accumulated in skillet into remaining dressing. Spoon dressing over top of pork. Swipe pork through dressing as you eat.